Now that the buzz has quieted to a hum, the summer visitors are gone and so is the shock of the news that Saranac Lake could possibly lose its beloved Eat ‘n’ Meet Grill and Larder, I would like to speak to you, my neighbors and friends, about the subject.

Colleen and I came here about 10 years ago, drawn by the beauty of the mountains and the small-town life that promised us a chance to raise our young family in a true community. You see, we are transplants from the Hudson Valley, where I enjoyed great success and notoriety for running one of the Valley’s iconic seafood restaurants attached to a legacy fish market.

You may have noticed over the years that I have included many seafood items on our menu, a nod to my love of fish, fishing and pescatarians in general. If the restaurant has been closed, you could bet that it was because I was playing hooky with my son Nathan and that we were undoubtedly out chasing northern pike on a nearby pond or lake. Our love of the fishing pastime has resulted in Blue Line Sports’ recruitment of Nate to their fishing department. Just this morning, Nate and I were discussing his college plans, and the consensus was that he should pursue an eventual career as a guide.

“Do what you love, Nate, and you will never work a day in your life.” That is how I have felt for the majority of my career as a chef, and living here has made that philosophy not only possible, but also probable. Adirondackers have never judged us for taking a day off: “You work so hard; an occasional day off when the fish are biting is why we all live here.” To me, it is just like when people in Hawaii close up shop because “surf’s up!”

Occasionally, small-town living has caused us frustration, owing to the fact that a few local characters seem to want to affect the lives of so many. But we have always been encouraged by the pushback of locals who care about their hometown and the future of this fragile place. When we travel south to the Valley to visit friends and family left behind, though, we always get the same feeling, that they think we are nuts for leaving the enlightened masses to live with a bunch of hillbillies in an Appalachia setting out of the hustle and bustle that is required of such an existence. You know how it feels, though, to get north of Lake George and feel the relief of leaving that world behind. The traffic disappears, the air cools a bit, and pulling into Saranac Lake makes us know that we are home. I feel sorry for the sinners who still spend their lives talking real estate values and “potential” during every conversation. Sure, it is tough to live in a place where high-paying jobs are few and winters are long. But when the fish are biting, any doubt about our choice of location disappears.

Which brings me to our (the Vargos’) future. Everyone wants to know what we will do next, after the restaurant sells. That is easy to answer. We intend to stay right here, buy a piece of land and build our own legacy homestead/camp for generations of Vargos to enjoy forever. My life as a chef has taught me what is important in life, and the answer is our family first, nature and good food. I want my grandchildren to say, “My grandparents built this place.” Like so many of our local friends, we want to be able to get back to nature and teach our children and grandchildren the importance of reverence for the earth and all of its beauty and bounty. Running a restaurant is a young person’s game, and we would like to see a young family enjoy the same opportunity for a quality of life we have enjoyed for all of these years. But as I approach my 50th birthday this December, I have to take stock and consider the legacy that we want to pass on. As Colleen and myself look to the future, we are steadfast in our resolve to pass the values we have learned on to future generations. And that takes time – something that we are all running out of as the seasons come and go. As the last few leaves fall from the hillsides, we can’t help but feel that our time is fleeting, and there will be many winters to follow. But our lives have had meaning, and like the leaves, we have brought much joy and happiness to those around us. Owning The Eat ‘n Meet Grill has made it so. But spring will come again, and a rebirth will occur, and the future will belong to the young.

Thank you, Saranac Lake, for allowing us to care, and for caring about us. We are truly blessed.

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John Vargo is chef and owner of Eat ‘n’ Meet Grill and Larder in Saranac Lake.