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A funny, narrative guide to the Northern Forest Canoe Trail

Ever since 2006, when the Northern Forest Canoe Trail opened, it’s been exciting to local paddlers. Yes, you can put a canoe in at Old Forge and, with only a few portages, float all the way to northern Maine. The route is quite pretty, crosses the Canadian border, and traces some history–log drives, railroads, contested territories … and yet, not much literature has accumulated around the trail. Some planning documents are available through the NFCT non-profit, and magazine articles and journal-style accounts have come from through-paddlers. What there hasn’t been–until now–is a comprehensive book that mixes guidebook advice with great photography.

Enter Dan Tobyne’s new book “Paddling the Northern Forest Canoe Trail,” from Down East Books (an imprint of Globe Pequot, which also houses some of my other favorite guides). Dan has published text and photography about New England before, but this is his first publication that involves the Adirondacks. While Tobyne (and his co-author Eric Alexander) didn’t paddle the entirety of the trail system in one go, they took many shorter trips to maximize photography opportunities and have compiled a stunning book. With over 200 photos, all printed on decent gloss paper, this is a book for the coffee-table as well as the reference library.

Paddling the Northern Forest Canoe Trail mixes several of the established genres for trail literature–personal journal-esque anecdotes, how-to advice, and documentary and scenic photography. This is a book for the enthusiast as well as the reminiscer. Those who dream of paddling the trail will appreciate the vicarious experiences; those who have been-there-done-that will recognize some trials and triumphs.

It’s always interesting to see familiar places with a stranger’s eyes, and the Adirondack sections of the book jump out. Anecdotes about specific restaurants that hit the spot (The Belvedere in Saranac Lake, Drake’s in Inlet, Clair and Carl’s in Plattsburgh), great campsites (Browns Tract and Fish Creek), or ornery Park Rangers are all touching, in a backhanded way. It’s nice to be recognized, even for the dubious honor of being “the place that forgot to close” when the 1950s were over. Oh well.

The practical information in the book falls into a strange middle ground. It is neither wrong nor insufficient. But it’s one guy’s opinion on what you might want or need for a very long, very personal journey. Dan Tobyne is a photographer, not a paddling instructor or a survival expert. In this book he acts as all three. While his book includes sections on maps, food, “Critters,” and “Things to Know Before You Go,” it will not be definitive for aspiring through-paddlers. Other, more specific materials will prepare you better for physical details. But, if you’re in a position to visit the NFCT with your mind, this is the book for you. The anecdotes are funny and crafted with a nice sense for narrative arc. The photos are superb. And the Adirondacks, as usual, is the star of the show.

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