These alliums add their distinctive, delicate flavor to all types of culinary delights — soups, stir-fries, chicken, pork, salads and egg dishes. If you haven’t yet tried cooking them, it’s time to enjoy their subtle, sweet flavor.

They resemble scallions; like onions, they have many layers and a white bulb that flows into green, tightly wrapped, flat leaves. They should be about an inch in diameter and about a foot long, with bright white bulbs and straight, thick, crisp dark green leaves. Avoid leeks that are wilted, yellow, brown, or slimy. Bigger bulbs can be tough and fibrous.

In warmer climates, leeks are a winter crop, so they’re abundant from late fall to early spring. In our North Country, these slow-growing alliums mature in late fall.

A relative newcomer to America, leeks have long been a staple in Europe and Asia. They’re important in French cuisine. They’re native to a large region stretching from the Mediterranean to India, where they’ve been cultivated for over 3,000 years. During their exodus from Egypt, the Jews complained of the lack of leeks and garlic to season their dishes. Today, leeks, which symbolize the desire to cut off one’s enemies, are customarily served at the Jewish New Year festival, Rosh Hashanah. Sephardic Jews serve leek fritters at Hanukkah.

Leeks in snow (Provided photo — Yvona Fast)

Greek and Roman historians mention leeks, which were thought to be good for the throat and voice. The Romans introduced leeks to northern Europe, where they could tolerate cool weather and grew well. They became the national emblem of Wales, where leek cawl has become a St. David’s Day tradition, commemorating King Cadwallader’s victory over the Saxons in 640 AD. The traditional soup, made with meat and root vegetables, is a great winter warm-up. The most famous modern leek dish is also a soup — Vichyssoise, a chilled pureed leek and potato soup created by French chef Louis Diat in 1917.

Allium Porrum (leek) belongs to the allium family, which also includes onions, garlic, shallots, chives and scallions. Compounds found in allium vegetables protect against colorectal and prostate cancers. While garlic and onions contain higher concentrations of these compounds, leeks are also a good source and their milder, sweeter taste means you can eat more of them. In addition, allium vegetables are good for the heart, lowering blood pressure and reducing LDL and total cholesterol while raising HDL, the “good cholesterol” levels.

Leeks are an excellent source of the minerals manganese and iron, fiber and vitamin C and a good source of vitamin B6 and folate. Taken together, these nutrients help to stabilize blood sugar levels. One cup of raw chopped leeks contains just 57 calories.

Store loosely wrapped, unwashed, untrimmed leeks in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator. You don’t want them to dry out, but wrapping them too tightly in plastic will promote rot.

The whole leek is edible, but the dark green leaves are tough and bitter, so they’re best cut off and discarded. Also, cut off the root, as you would on a scallion.

Use the white bulb and light-green stem or leaves. Cut them in half lengthwise and rinse under running water to remove any sand that is caught between the layers. Slice across, then place in a colander and rinse again.

Their sweet, subtle flavor has graced many traditional and innovative dishes. Finely chopped, raw leeks are great in salads. They’re used to flavor broths, soups and stews. Sauteed leeks will dress up vegetables like plain potatoes or sweet potatoes. They’re great in egg dishes, like omelets, quiches or frittatas.

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Simple Leek Waldorf Salad

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Ingredients:

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1 leek

2 teaspoons salt

1 large or 2 small apples

1 or 2 ribs of celery

2 Tablespoons plain Greek yogurt (or substitute 1 Tablespoon with sour cream or mayonnaise)

1/4 cup raisins, optional

1/2 cup walnut or pecan halves, optional

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Directions:

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Cut leeks in half lengthwise. Rinse to remove sand, then slice across in 1/4″ to 1/2″ slices. Place sliced leeks in a colander and mix with the salt. Leave for 30 to 60 minutes, then rinse to remove excess salt and transfer to a serving bowl.

Core and chop one unpeeled apple, and add it to the bowl with the leeks. Slice the celery thinly and add it. Stir in the yogurt and sour cream and the raisins, if using.

If desired, toast nuts in a dry skillet over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Use as a garnish.

Serves two to three.

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Potatoes (or sweet potatoes) with sauteed leeks

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This is an easy, delicious way to dress up Thanksgiving holiday potatoes. Works with boiled or baked potatoes.

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Ingredients:

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2 pounds of potatoes or sweet potatoes

Bacon (2 strips, or an equal amount ends and pieces. Can also use butter or olive oil; you’ll need about 3 Tablespoons fat).

4 cloves of garlic

2 leeks

1/2 cup fresh minced parsley, optional

1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

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Directions:

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Remove root ends and dark green leaves from leeks. Slice in half lengthwise, then slice into thin half-circles. Rinse to remove any sand or dirt, and set aside to drain.

Prepare potatoes or sweet potatoes by baking, boiling or roasting. Set aside.

While potatoes are cooking, in a large skillet, cook the bacon until crisp and the fat is rendered. Remove to paper towels to drain. Or heat about 3 tablespoons of olive oil and butter.

Peel and mince the garlic. Add to the skillet and cook over medium heat 1 or 2 minutes until golden, then add the leeks. Cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Stir. Cook another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until leeks are soft and tender.

Remove from heat. Drizzle with lemon juice and sprinkle with parsley. Stir to combine.

Taste, and sprinkle with salt and pepper if needed.

Combine with cooked, boiled potatoes or use to top baked potatoes or roasted sweet potato halves.

You can also serve these sauteed leeks on their own as a side with turkey or other meat (omit potatoes).

Serves four.

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Author of the award-winning cookbook Garden Gourmet: Fresh & Fabulous Meals from your Garden, CSA or Farmers’ Market, Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear and has two passions: writing and cooking. She can be found at www.yvonafast.com and reached at writeyvona@gmail.com