Squash (Provided photo — Yvona Fast)

Summer squash is on the wane — but can still be found at farmers markets.

Winter squashes are beginning to appear. There are squash, like spaghetti or delicata, that don’t fit neatly into summer or winter varieties. Delicata is tender, with a skin that does not need to be peeled. Spaghetti squash forms strands (hence the name) rather than pulp.

So many varieties of squash! Zucchini is known as Italian squash, kusa as Lebanese. These cultures adopted these squash … but all squash came from the American continent. Modern squash varieties developed from wild squash native to Central America, an important food staple for 8,000 years throughout the American continent. They’re part of the three sisters, or three basic staples of the Native American diet: corn (carbohydrate), beans (protein), and squash (vegetable).

In addition to the usual green and yellow cylindrical zucchinis and crooknecks, summer squashes include saucer-shaped patty pans and pear-shaped chayotes. Other unusual varieties are the papaya pear, a squash that looks like a large, yellow pear, and the eight ball, a round charmer with glossy, forest-green skin that’s great for stuffing. Kusa are shorter and fatter than zucchini, and are usually striped.

Winter squash also come in many varieties. Butternut and acorn are the best-known and most common. Hubbard is the largest squash, varying in color; they’re the size of pumpkins but with ridges. They’re best roasted for their dry, light, mild-tasting pulp. Kabocha, with a deep green shell and dry, flaky, light, mild flesh, is a favorite among connoisseurs. Sweet dumpling is sweet and — uhm — shaped like a dumpling. Although there are subtle variations in flavor and texture, most varieties of winter squash can be used interchangeably in recipes.

Summer squashes are a low-density food with few calories (20 in a half-cup serving); they’re 90% or more water. They’re good sources of fiber, magnesium, potassium, manganese, copper, phosphorus and vitamins C, beta-carotene (vitamin A), folate and riboflavin — nutrients important for heart disease prevention. They also offer antioxidants like lutein, known to protect eyesight.

All squashes are delicate, and good as a first solid food for babies. They’re all high in fiber. Most are good sources of potassium and vitamins. The orange or yellow ones have high concentrations of vitamin A.

To prepare summer squash, rinse them and cut the ends off. Don’t peel the tender skin which contains most of the nutrients. Depending on your intent, shred, slice or dice them. They’re great brushed with a little oil and cooked on the grill. Baking, sauteeing or stir-frying will bring out more flavor than cooking in water or steam. Don’t overcook; they’re best when still a little crisp. Herbs that enhance the flavor of summer squash include basil, dill, parsley, marjoram, rosemary, savory and cumin. But go easy — you don’t want to mask the delicate flavor. Use alone as a vegetable side dish for meat, or add to stir-fries, skillets, soups, casseroles, and egg dishes like frittatas, omelets and souffles. They’re also good raw as crudites or added to vegetable, pasta, grain or bean salads. And they’re good in muffins and quick breads, like zucchini bread.

Winter squash need longer cooking than summer varieties. They’re best prepared by roasting or steaming and are great in casseroles, pies, breads and soups. Seasonings from sweet to spicy can enhance their flavor. Mildly sweet and slightly nutty, winter squash goes well with tart or sharp flavors, like citrus, pungent greens or hot peppers.

All squashes blend well with onions and mushrooms, cheese, sausage, eggs and a variety of herbs from basil and parsley to dill and marjoram. Combine squash varieties in casseroles, soups, stir-fries and baked goods.

This time of year, squashes are abundant and relatively inexpensive. Large squashes can make several meals, so plan accordingly, or freeze some. Eat up on summer squash before frost comes and the season ends. Winter squash store well so local ones will be available through the end of autumn.

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Squash and Pepper Salad

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Ingredients:

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh minced basil

1 teaspoon fresh minced parsley

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 bunch scallions or 1 large sweet onion

2 to 3 cups summer squash (use a combination of green and yellow, if you have them)

1/2 yellow bell pepper

1/2 red bell pepper

1/2 green bell pepper

1 hot pepper, optional

Grated parmesan or crumbled feta, for optional garnish

Directions:

Crush garlic with salt — I like a microplane for grating the garlic, you can also use a mortar and pestle. Combine in bottom of salad bowl with olive oil, herbs, and lemon juice.

Prepare the vegetables. Remove root ends from scallions and slice thin, or peel and mince the onion. Dice or shred the squash. Seed, rinse, and dice the peppers. Add to the dressing in the bowl and stir to coat. Allow to soak up the flavors for at least 30 minutes. Toss again, place in individual bowls, and top with shredded cheese, if desired.

Option: For a main dish salad, stir in 1 1/2 cups (1 can) of cooked, drained garbanzo beans to add protein for a complete meal.

Serves 4.

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Easy Zucchini

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Ingredients:

1 or 2 teaspoons cooking oil

1 teaspoon salt, divided

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon turmeric (optional)

1 large onion or 1 bunch scallions

About 1 cup mushrooms, sliced — like oyster or portobello

2 medium zucchini (one yellow, one green for a colorful combination)

1/4 cup fresh chopped dill

1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt or sour cream

Directions:

Heat oil in large skillet. Peel and dice the onion. Slice the mushrooms. Rinse the zucchini, cut off the ends and slice thin. Add onion, mushrooms and zucchini to the skillet; sprinkle with remaining salt, pepper and turmeric, if using. Cook, stirring, 4-5 minutes. Chop the dill, and add. Remove from heat; stir in sour cream. Serve warm. This makes a good side for chicken and dilled boiled potatoes.

Serves 3-4.

Option: Add diced cooked chicken and boiled potatoes for a one-dish meal.

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Author of the award-winning cookbook Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear and has two passions: writing and cooking. She can be found at www.yvonafast.com and reached at yvonawrite@yahoo.com or on Twitter: @yvonawrites.