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Return of the elderberry

Apple-Elderberry Crisp (Provided photo — Yvona Fast)

Strawberries in June, blueberries in July, raspberries and blackberries in early August. Late August is for elderberries.

These tiny berries, smaller than peas, are a little sweet and a little tart. They grow on thigh-high bushes They were once a common backyard fruit available at roadside stands and farmers markets.

Shrubs of the genus, sambucus, grow wild in temperate regions of all continents except Africa and Antarctica. Sambucus canadensis is the most common in our region; it grows wild throughout eastern North America as far north as zone 3 and 4. Sambucus nigra is the European species; the dark berries must be cooked (they are slightly toxic when raw).

Since the tiny, fragile berries do not store or transport well, they have not fared well in the modern age of supermarket produce aisles where California berries are available throughout the year. A tart fruit (though not as sour as cranberries) they’re associated in most people’s minds with elderberry wine, jam, or pie.

However, the plants are experiencing a resurgence. The coronavirus pandemic has made these anti-oxidant-rich berries grow in popularity.

Sambucus has been touted for its medicinal uses since the time of Hippocrates. Modern research has found a link between the power of elderberries and fighting viruses, including flu, COVID, colds, AIDS, herpes and Epstein-Barr.

According to a recent story on North Country Public Radio, demand for elderberry products like nutritional supplements, energy drinks and nutrition bars has exploded. These elderberry products already bring in $300 million a year and could grow by as much as 30% by 2030.

Elderberries contain vitamins A and B, are very rich in vitamin C, and contain quercetin, anthocyanins, and other flavonoids and antioxidants. They are a source of calcium and have more phosphorus and potassium than any other temperate fruit crop.

Elderberries are attractive, easy-to-grow landscape plants with creamy white, fragrant, edible flowers in late June and dark clusters of berries in late August to early September. They attract lots of wildlife: butterflies love the flower nectar and the berries are a favorite of many birds. Shallow-rooted, they tolerate soils with a wide range of texture, fertility, and acidity, but prefer fertile, well-drained soil with an acid pH (between 5.5 and 6.5).

To harvest the berries, pick the large clusters, bring them home, and remove the berries from the stems with your fingers or with the help of a fork. In addition to bouquets, elder flowers are used for herbal tea and fritters. The berries are best in wine, vinegar, jams, syrups, pies and other baked goods. They pair well with sweet fruit like apples, peaches or pears.

With 400 acres of elderberries currently under cultivation, Missouri leads the nation with elderberry farms. Locally, I purchased some from Rulfs Orchard at the Saranac Lake Farmers Market.

Apple-Elderberry Crisp

Ingredients:

3 apples

1 cup elderberries

1 stick (8 Tablespoons) butter

1 cup rolled oats

1/2 cup flour (can be part whole wheat)

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375*F. Butter a 9 x 9-inch baking pan or spray with cooking spray; set aside.

Peel, core and slice apples. Arrange in dish. Top with elderberries.

Make topping: In bowl combine oats, flour, brown sugar, salt and cinnamon. Melt butter, pour in, and mix with a fork. Spoon over fruit in baking dish.

Bake about 40-45 minutes, until brown.

Serve warm with a dollop of ice cream, whipped cream or as desired.

Apple-Elderberry Chutney

Ingredients

1/2 cup water

2 Tablespoons maple syrup

2 Tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1 or 2 apples, chopped

3/4 cup elderberries

1/2 cup black currants, optional

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/4 tsp. allspice

1/4 tsp. cloves

1/4 tsp. ginger

Preparation

Boil water, maple syrup, sugar and vinegar for about two minutes. Add diced, peeled apples, elderberries, and currants (if using), onion, and spices. Bring to a boil and simmer, being careful not to burn the mixture. Cook over low heat, stirring often until mixture starts to thicken, about 15 to 30 minutes. Add water or apple juice if needed. It will thicken more when it cools.

Put chutney in jar or bowl, cool, and refrigerate up to one month.

Author of the award-winning cookbook “Garden Gourmet: Fresh & Fabulous Meals from your Garden, CSA or Farmers’ Market,” Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear and has two passions: writing and cooking. She can be found at www.yvonafast.com and reached at yvonawrite@yahoo.com or on Twitter: @yvonawrites.

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