Soup pot (Photo provided — Yvona Fast)

All month I have been writing about soup. That’s because soup is classic.

Around the world, almost every culture embraces soup. Connected with the discovery of pottery, this ancient, timeless dish is one of man’s oldest culinary creations.

When times are hard and food is scarce, soup is the perfect way of feeding many from one pot. My mom talks about her childhood in the Warsaw Ghetto and the orphanage. They had little else, but they had soup.

Soup uses up ingredients that would be thrown out or given to the pigs. Soup starters include onion trimmings, celery leaves and parts of carrots. The rind from parmesan cheese adds flavor and depth to soup before it is discarded. A fish stock can be made with fish heads and trimmings, then drained to get rid of the bones. Bones and undesirable parts of meat are often used. In Yemen, oxtails are simmered a long time to make akwa, a spicy oxtail soup.

Soups have origins in different cultures and are sometimes brought from one culture to another, with an interesting mix of flavors. Mulligatawny is one such soup. Originating in India, the soup was adopted by British colonists at the end of the 18th century. Milagu-tannir means “pepper water” in Tamil.

This rich, curried soup gets its flavor from black pepper as well as curry. Onion, celery, cucumbers, lentils, fresh coconut and almonds are often added, along with coconut milk. It is garnished with cooked rice.

Mulligatawny has changed over time and adapted to Western tastes. Other versions cut down on pepper, curry and spices to make the soup more palatable to British and Western palates. Apples replaced mangoes, tamarinds and lemons. Western foods like peppers and tomatoes have been added. Cream is substituted for coconut milk and powdered curry has replaced individual spices (China turmeric, cassia, black peppercorns, allspice berries, cayenne pepper and coriander seeds). Chicken stock or mutton stock has replaced vegetable stock, which was originally used by vegetarian Hindus, who sometimes put small fish in the soup.

Another soup with various origins and names is New England hot pot, or hodgepodge. Recipes for the dish surface in 17th century Europe and reflect medieval and renaissance flavors. They are variously attributed to the Netherlands, England (Lancashire), Scotland and Spain. In Lancashire, the dish is made with mutton, onions and vegetables, layered in a large, round, straight-sided pot with a lid. In Spain, chicken and fowl is the meat used for this stew. Pork and beef are also often used.

In any case, a hotpot is a simple, long-cooking stew with meat, vegetables and sometimes barley. Potatoes are often included today, but were not part of the original versions prior to their arrival in Europe.

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Simple Mulligatawny

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Ingredients:

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)

2 ribs celery, chopped (about 1 cup)

2 carrots, chopped (about 1 cup)

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

4 teaspoons curry powder

1 pound meat like boneless, skinless chicken thighs or pork chop or stew meat, or 1 can garbanzo beans for vegetarian version

2 cups broth (chicken, beef or vegetable)

2 cups water

2 bay leaves

1/4 cup uncooked basmati rice

2 tart apples, cored, peeled, and chopped (about 2 cups)

3 cups greens (kale, collards, mustard, turnip, etc.), optional

1/4 cup coconut milk or half and half

1/4 cup plain yogurt, for garnish

1 tablespoon minced chives, for garnish

Directions:

In the bottom of soup kettle, melt the butter or heat the oil over medium heat. Add chopped onion, sliced celery and sliced carrot. Sprinkle with some of the salt. Lower heat and cook on low about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the curry powder to coat.

Add the meat, if using. Stir to coat with curry powder and brown for a couple minutes.

Add the broth, remaining salt, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; lower heat to simmer and cook about 20 minutes.

Remove meat; it should be cooked through. Allow to cool on cutting board

Add rice and apples to the pot. Add fresh greens, if using. Simmer 15 minutes, until rice is cooked through.

Dice or shred the chicken; return to the soup and cook 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir in cream or coconut milk. If using garbanzo beans, drain, rinse and stir them in now.

Ladle into bowls. Stir in yogurt and sprinkle with chives.

Serves 4 – 6.

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Hot Pot

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Depending on how you make it, this can be a stew or a casserole.

Ingredients:

2 Tablespoons cooking oil

1 pound stew meat or lamb or sirloin tips or meat of your choice

1 or 2 onions

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 or 2 carrots

2 stalks celery

turnips, parsnips (optional)

1 Tablespoon flour

2 to 6 cups broth or broth mixed with water

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon thyme, optional

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 potatoes

Directions:

In the skillet or soup kettle, heat the oil. Dice the meat and cook, stirring, until browned. Remove and set aside.

Peel and dice the onions; add to the same pan, sprinkle with salt and cook 5 minutes.

Slice carrots, celery and root veggies if using, and add to the same pan. Cook about 10 minutes.

Stir the meat back in; add flour and stir to coat.

Add the broth, bay leaves, thyme and Worcestershire sauce.

To cook as a soup — add more broth, and add the potatoes. Cook until all vegetables are cooked through. You can also add a quarter cup or half cup of barley if you wish.

To cook as a casserole – place in oven-safe casserole dish; use less broth. Slice potatoes thin (about 1/8″) and layer on top. Dot with butter. Bake about an hour, or until potatoes are cooked through and browned.

Serves 4 to 6.

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Author of the award-winning cookbook “Garden Gourmet: Fresh & Fabulous Meals from your Garden, CSA or Farmers’ Market,” Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear. She can be found at www.yvonafast.com and reached at yvonawrite@yahoo.com or on Facebook at Words Are My World.